júhuā chá

Chrysanthemum tea is one of the most widespread floral infusions in China, prepared from dried inflorescences of the cultivated chrysanthemum (菊花, júhuā). Despite the word “tea” in the name, this is not a beverage made from the leaf of the tea plant Camellia sinensis, but a classic tea substitute: in Chinese food nomenclature, such beverages fall under 代用茶 (dàiyòng chá) — “replacement tea,” meaning a herbal infusion brewed and drunk according to tea-drinking habits. The primary raw material comes from several forms of the species Chrysanthemum morifolium, cultivated in the provinces of Zhejiang, Anhui, Henan, and a number of other regions. In daily life, chrysanthemum is drunk as a “cooling” summer beverage, often with goji berries or rock sugar, and is also blended with shu puerh to create a drink known as 菊普 (jú pǔ). Standing apart in the market is the so-called “snow chrysanthemum” from Xinjiang, which, as will be shown below, is botanically not a chrysanthemum at all.

1. Classification and Origin:

• Type: floral herbal infusion, tea substitute (代用茶, dàiyòng chá).
• Botanical Source: inflorescences of the florist’s chrysanthemum, Chrysanthemum morifolium (family Asteraceae) and closely related cultivated forms.
• What the Product Does Not Contain: Camellia sinensis leaves — no true tea is present in chrysanthemum infusion.
• Main Regions: Zhejiang (Tongxiang, 桐乡), Anhui (Huangshan 黄山, Chuzhou 滁州, Bozhou 亳州), Henan (Jiaozuo 焦作 / historical Huaiqing region 怀庆).

It is important to understand the nature of the product. Chrysanthemum infusion is classified as “tea” solely by its mode of consumption, not by botany: the tea plant is absent, and the health value, taste, and terroir are determined by the chrysanthemum itself. In the Chinese system, such beverages are honestly separated into their own category, 代用茶 (dàiyòng chá) — a plant-based infusion substitute. This is not a “surrogate,” but an independent centuries-old genre with its own agronomy, grading, and culture of brewing.

The Latin name requires a caveat: the most widely accepted form is Chrysanthemum morifolium, yet in some botanical literature the same species appears under the synonym Dendranthema morifolium — the result of a long-standing dispute over the splitting of the genus. Here, the common usage Chrysanthemum morifolium is employed.

It must also be clearly stated regarding “snow chrysanthemum”: 天山雪菊 (tiānshān xuějú), also known as 昆仑雪菊 (kūnlún xuějú), is botanically not a chrysanthemum, but plains coreopsis — Coreopsis tinctoria, a plant of the same family Asteraceae but a different genus, native to North America and cultivated in the highlands of Xinjiang. It is sold in the same product niche, but it is a distinct species.

2. History and Cultural Significance:

• Antiquity: the chrysanthemum has been cultivated in China for over two thousand years, originally as an ornamental and medicinal plant.
• Festival: the Double Ninth Festival (重阳节, chóngyáng jié) is traditionally associated with the chrysanthemum — climbing heights and drinking chrysanthemum wine (菊花酒, júhuā jiǔ).
• Symbolism: the chrysanthemum ranks among the “Four Gentlemen” of Chinese painting (四君子, sì jūnzǐ), alongside the plum blossom, orchid, and bamboo, embodying resilience and autumn.

The chrysanthemum is firmly linked to the image of the hermit-poet Tao Yuanming (陶渊明), who celebrated the flower by the eastern hedge. From an ornamental and “apothecary” culture, the chrysanthemum eventually entered firmly into daily use as the base of a refreshing infusion drunk year-round, but especially in the hot season.

3. Botanical Description and Raw Material:

• Plant: a perennial herb of the Asteraceae family, with erect stems and dissected leaves.
• Inflorescence: a capitulum, where ray florets (marginal, “petals”) and disk florets (central) are distinguished — it is the entire capitulum that constitutes the raw material.
• Raw Material: dried whole inflorescences or unopened buds.

The trade types represented in the market merit individual discussion.

• 胎菊 (tāi jú): “embryo chrysanthemum” — unopened or barely opened buds of the Hangzhou white chrysanthemum (杭白菊). They are regarded as the higher grade, softer and sweeter material with less bitterness.
• 白菊花 / 杭白菊 (bái júhuā / háng bái jú): white chrysanthemums, the benchmark of which is the product from Tongxiang (Zhejiang), which carries Geographical Indication status (地理标志, dìlǐ biāozhì).
• 黄山贡菊 / 贡菊 (huángshān gòngjú / gòngjú): “tribute” chrysanthemum from the Huangshan area (Anhui, historical Huizhou region); white, slender inflorescences prized for their clean taste.
• 金丝黄菊 (jīnsī huángjú): yellow “golden-thread” chrysanthemums with a rich-coloured infusion.
• 滁菊 (chú jú), 亳菊 (bó jú), 怀菊 (huái jú): respectively from Chuzhou, Bozhou (Anhui), and the Huaiqing region (Henan).

These varieties form part of the traditional line-up of “famous chrysanthemums.” The classic list of the “Four Famous” (四大名菊, sì dà míng jú) most often names 亳菊, 滁菊, 贡菊, and 杭菊; however, in some regional lists 怀菊 (Henan, also included among the “Four Huaiqing Medicinals”) is counted among the “four.” The composition of the quartet varies historically by source, a fact worth noting.

Finally, 天山雪菊 (tiānshān xuějú) is, as stated above, plains coreopsis (Coreopsis tinctoria), not a chrysanthemum; it is given a separate line here due to its recognisable deep red infusion.

4. Terroir and Cultivation Characteristics:

• Tongxiang (Zhejiang): flat, humid lands of the Yangtze Delta; home of the benchmark 杭白菊 and 胎菊 buds.
• Huangshan (Anhui): hilly areas yielding the delicate white 贡菊.
• Xinjiang, foothills of the Kunlun Mountains: high-altitude terrain where the coreopsis of “snow chrysanthemum” is cultivated.

Chrysanthemum harvesting occurs in late autumn, typically from October to November, when the capitula reach the required degree of opening. For 胎菊 buds, harvesting is carried out earlier, before full bloom. The quality of the raw material depends on variety, harvest timing, and care in drying no less than on geography.

5. Production Technology:

• Plucking: manual or mechanised picking of inflorescences and buds at the optimal stage.
• Fixation and Drying: several approaches — steam treatment followed by drying (characteristic of 杭白菊), hot-air drying/withering (typical of 贡菊), as well as gentle shade drying.
• Sorting: selection by size, wholeness, and colour.

The drying method notably affects appearance and taste. Steam “fixation” with subsequent drying yields slightly compressed, matte inflorescences of the Hangzhou type; hot drying preserves the more open form of Huangshan 贡菊. We should separately mention the harmful practice of sulphur fumigation (硫磺熏, liúhuáng xūn): it bleaches and “freshens” the appearance of the material but leaves a sharp, sour odour and is undesirable — a quality product is dried without it.

6. Organoleptic Characteristics:

• Infusion: from pale yellow and golden (white and yellow chrysanthemums) to deep amber-red (coreopsis “snow chrysanthemum”).
• Aroma: fresh, floral-herbaceous; while 胎菊 buds have a rounder, more honeyed aroma.
• Taste: soft, slightly sweet with a light hint of bitterness, clean aftertaste.

胎菊 is generally perceived as the sweetest and “smoothest” material; 贡菊 is prized for its transparent florality; yellow varieties give a denser infusion; coreopsis is known for its saturated colour and honeyed notes.

7. Chemical Composition:

• Flavonoids: luteolin, apigenin, acacetin and their glycosides — the principal group of bioactive compounds.
• Phenolic Acids: primarily chlorogenic acid.
• Essential Oils: terpenoid components (including borneol, camphor, and related substances) that form the aroma.

In “snow chrysanthemum” coreopsis, the composition differs: its own flavonoid-chalcones (notably marein and related compounds) are responsible for the deep colour and taste. The exact profile depends on variety, region, and drying method.

8. Health Properties:

• As commonly understood in Chinese everyday tradition: chrysanthemum is classified as a “cooling” drink, associated with “clearing heat” (清热, qīngrè) and the idea of “brightening the eyes” (明目, míngmù); the classic combination is with goji berries (枸杞, gǒuqǐ).
• What science investigates: chrysanthemum flavonoids and phenolic acids are studied as antioxidants; this refers to laboratory and preliminary data, not proven clinical effect.

An important caveat: chrysanthemum infusion is a food product, not a medicine. It carries no therapeutic promises, and health claims made in retail trade lie outside the scope of an encyclopedic article. Among widely known neutral precautions, one should mention moderation in consumption; caution during pregnancy and when taking medications (it is appropriate to consult a doctor beforehand); as well as a possible reaction in people with an allergy to plants of the Asteraceae family. All of this is provided as reference information, without recommendations or dosages.

9. Brewing:

• Ratio: approximately 3–5 g of material (several whole inflorescences or a handful of 胎菊 buds) per 200–250 ml of water.
• Water: around 85–95 °C; closer to the lower limit for delicate buds, closer to the upper limit for dense whole inflorescences and yellow varieties.
• Vessels: a glass cup or gaiwan — glass allows one to admire the flower unfurling; a teapot is also suitable.
• Time: 2–4 minutes for the first infusion, then to taste.
• Multiple infusions: the material withstands 2–4 steeps; 胎菊 buds deliver their taste more evenly and last longer.

Chrysanthemum is often drunk with the addition of rock sugar (冰糖, bīngtáng) and goji berries, and is also brewed together with shu puerh (菊普, jú pǔ). The infusion is excellent served cold: cooled or chilled in hot weather, it reveals a refreshing side. “Snow chrysanthemum” coreopsis is brewed similarly, but its deep colour appears quickly.

10. Storage:

• Conditions: in a dry, dark place, in a tightly sealed container, away from extraneous odours.
• Vulnerabilities: floral material is hygroscopic, sensitive to dampness, easily loses its aroma, and is susceptible to insect damage.

In conditions of high humidity, it is sensible to use hermetic packaging; some store the material in the refrigerator in a tightly closed container. Dampened or discoloured inflorescences lose quality.

11. Price and Counterfeits:

• Wholesale Benchmark: around 160–280 CNY/kg, with substantial variation by type and grade (胎菊 buds and premium batches are more expensive, standard material is cheaper). This is a rough estimate of magnitude, not a retail guarantee.
• What Genuine Material Looks Like: natural, not “bleached-bright” colour; whole inflorescences that do not crumble; a clean floral scent without chemical sharpness.

Typical market problems. Sulphur fumigation yields an unnaturally pale, “fresh” appearance and leaves a sour, acrid odour — when brewed, such an infusion may carry a sharp note. Artificial colouring is encountered, especially with yellow varieties and coreopsis: if the water turns an unnaturally bright colour instantly and the material “bleeds” dye, this is grounds for suspicion. Coreopsis (天山雪菊) is a legitimate independent product, but it is sometimes passed off specifically as “chrysanthemum,” although it is a different species. Finally, expensive 胎菊 and 贡菊 are not infrequently adulterated with cheaper material. Keys to selection are wholeness of inflorescences, natural colour, and a clean aroma.

12. Interesting Facts:

• The name 胎菊 literally means “embryo chrysanthemum” — buds picked before full bloom.
• The combination of chrysanthemum and shu puerh — 菊普 (jú pǔ) — is a popular beverage where the flower softens the density of the aged tea.
• “Snow chrysanthemum” from the Kunlun Mountains is the most prominent market case where a botanically different plant (coreopsis) is sold under the name of chrysanthemum.
• The chrysanthemum is one of the few flowers that has entered both the painting canon of the “Four Gentlemen” and the everyday culture of beverages.

In Conclusion:

Chrysanthemum tea is a model example of 代用茶 (dàiyòng chá): a beverage brewed and drunk like tea, yet made not from the tea leaf but from dried chrysanthemum inflorescences. This is an independent tradition with its own celebrated regions — Tongxiang, Huangshan, Chuzhou, Bozhou, and others — with its own grading system from delicate 胎菊 buds to yellow 金丝黄菊, and with its own recognisable brewing culture, including cold serving and pairing with goji and puerh.

With all due respect to the genre, it is important to call things by their proper names: there is no true tea in this product, and the “snow chrysanthemum” from Xinjiang is plains coreopsis, not a chrysanthemum. Chrysanthemum infusion remains a pleasant food beverage, not a medicine, and any health promises should be evaluated critically. Understanding what exactly is poured into the cup merely adds value to the drink — as a product with real geography, botany, and craftsmanship behind it.

the teas described here are available from teamotea